Drifting on the wind of Essaouira
Port of Essaouira
The wind blows my hair before I can see the city. Then the medina of Essaouira appears through the car’s window.
The well-known alizés of Essaouira have a personality of their own. They have a power of their own. They sing a song that can rattle windows. Even the Atlantic Ocean is not safe from their whims. They make the waves crash onto the ramparts. The howling winds carry sand in the air, grains intruding in the most unpleasant parts of your face, cracking under your teeth even though you mouth remains closed. By the end of the day, even salt lodges itself onto the skin brought by the force of the blows.
Yet it is not all unpleasant. The wind transports the elements and also revives your senses. The noise from the singing seagulls, the voices from merchants selling their fares, the smells of a spicy tajine simmering on a stove nearby. It brings forth a spectacle for your senses.
A calm rhythm
The medina, at the heart of the city, where we stayed is a calm and peaceful place. Besides from the many French tourists, which where not in great numbers at the end of February, the streets are calm and peaceful mostly. The medina is a labyrinth of blue, white and terracotta houses, tunnels and alleyways converging and crossing endlessly. Wandering without purpose is easy.
Once we found the way out, we made our way to the beach and despite the strong wind blowing, we sat and observed the courageous (or perhaps reckless) kitesurfers brave the cold, the waves and gale to mount their boards and after endlessly battling with their sail, soar high in the sky, carried by the strong western winds.
The sun was out, cheekily warming us despite the low teens temperatures and a tea porter was selling mint tea which came as a welcome surprise to accompany my watch over those seeking adrenaline.
Across from the bay stood the port of Essaouira with its blue fishermen’s boats. Fish there is sold right from the Atlantic Ocean a few meters down the road.
The quintessence of a slow life.
Eating the way to your soul
I never knew how wholesome Moroccan food truly was. Picture couscous soft, honeyed dried fruits scattered on, simmering hot lamb tajines, freshly picked strawberries and aubergines caviar amongst other delicacies.
For one evening, we found a place only visited by locals. It looked like a simple terrace with plastic orange chairs and small tables the same colour. Only men were sat there, a stainless-steel teapot and glass in front each of them. Some were playing board games, other cards while many were just talking amongst themselves.
My husband and sat down and were brought sardines, warm flatbread, soup and of course, our very own steeping tea pot to enjoy. We got used to mint tea very quickly and to have it at any time of the day too. There is nothing quite as invigorating during a cold-wind and rainy day as a hot glass of sweet mint tea. The sardines were rich, fresh, and oily. An uncomplicated, generous meal reflecting perfectly the character of city.
The colours of Essaouira
The medina is not on the grayscale. Colours are everywhere.
From the blues of the fishing boats, the white of houses, the ochre of the medina to the yellow, red, brown and scarlet of spice pyramids and the blues, oranges and greens of carpets and ceramics tucked in the souk. The most attracting colour yet is the one from the setting sun over the Atlantic, protectively covering the place with its golden light and red hues as if to say “see you tomorrow”.
The city is a vibrant kaleidoscope.
Sun setting of the Atlantic Ocean
For a few days, it has been a slow revelation. The calmness of the city washes over you. Much like the ocean crashing on the stones of the medina, gradually revealing newly eroded layers beneath, the atmosphere of the city changes you quietly for a short while. By the time you leave through the southern gate, carrying traces of salt on your skin and sand in your shoes, you realise that Essaouira has altered your rhythm entirely.
